How To Assemble a Push Pole   Got a question?

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Instructions for assembling a push pole....

Push poles are one of the tools of the trade for moving a boat in shallow water or getting to areas that no one else can reach. I have used push poles for many years and I never saw good instructions on how to put one together. The fine people at Renzetti, Inc. (Visit Renzetti's website by clicking here) provided the following instructions on how to assemble a push pole. If you have any questions about Renzetti, Inc. you can contact them at (321) 267-7705 and by fax at (321) 264-5929 (Email any questions to Renzetti by clicking here).

 
Parts needed: To begin you will need your push pole sections, the foot and tip (here I am using a GLoomis foot and metal tip), the connecting units (here I am using Renzetti, Inc. screw in connectors so I can disassemble my pole and store it better), epoxy, sandpaper, alcohol or acetone and a clean cloth. You will need an area that has a flat work surface and good ventilation. If is below 70 degrees you may consider doing this inside to ensure that your epoxy cures correctly. These directions are for a screw in type connectors but the directions are the same for solid connectors. Here I am using 80-grit sandpaper, you can use 100-grit if it easier to get. The sandpaper is regular paper sandpaper, you do not need emery cloth or any other specialty sandpaper for this job. Parts needed.jpg (251138 bytes)

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Sand parts.jpg (221658 bytes)

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Sand inserts: Lightly sand the connector insert ends with 80-grit sandpaper. Do not sand to hard or to long, just enough to scratch the surface to allow the epoxy to adhere to the blank. All you are doing is creating an uneven surface for the epoxy to flow into and adhere to. I usually sand in two directions that are totally opposite of each other. This ensures that there will be adequate surface area for the epoxy to adhere to. It does not take allot of effort nor does it require allot of force. Remember you are roughing the surface not reducing the diameter.

TIP: Mask the ends of the blank and edges of the point (this helps in clean up).

Rough the edges: Once you begin sanding stop often to inspect the surface area. This photo shows a roughed surface that will work well with the epoxy. You can see the scars that the sand paper created and feel them with your fingers. This should not take to many strokes with the sand paper depending on the material composition. Be careful not to take off to much material or change the shape of the object. Just remember to check your work and keep the sanding to a minimum.  Roughed edges.jpg (167958 bytes)

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Sand inside of push pole.jpg (184600 bytes)

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Sand the push pole: Lightly sand the interior of the blank with 80-grit sandpaper. Do not sand to hard or to long, just enough to scratch the surface to allow the epoxy to adhere to the blank. TIP: Mask the ends of the blank and edges of the point (This helps in clean up). As with the inserts you just want to scratch the surface. Use a small piece of sandpaper that is as long as the insert length. You may need to use a dowel rod wrapped in sand paper to get the correct depth.

Inspect the push pole end: Look at the inside of the push pole section you just sanded. If the surface is scratched and rough like the one shown you have accomplished your task. The push pole end just like the inserts should be roughed not damaged. Pay attention to the sanding on the inside of the push pole do not sand until the graphite fibers are unraveling. If the graphite fibers are open and loose the pole will eventually break. A little goes along way so take your time or it could be a costly mistake. The photo to the left shows a roughed finish and the inner coating on the graphite is still in tact, yours should look the same. Push pole inside edge.jpg (199311 bytes)

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Clean ends.jpg (232363 bytes)

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Clean all parts: Swab the inside of the blank with lacquer thinner to remove the dust. Continue swabbing until a paper towel shows no black residue. Use the same procedure on the ferrules and insert points. I use acetone to clean all my surfaces because it evaporates quickly and cleanly. Use alcohol if you prefer but allow the pieces to dry before applying epoxy to them. Whichever chemical you use ensure that you have adequate ventilation and follow all the manufacturers instructions on use of their products. Clean cloths are a must here because any residue left from other jobs could bleed onto the surface you are cleaning and further contaminate it.
Mix epoxy: Do not use 3M 5200 adhesive for assembly, because the inserts cannot be removed or reused. DO NOT USE 5 Minute EPOXY for assembly, use an epoxy with a 30-minute plus cure time this will allow you to complete all task before the epoxy begins to set. When working with epoxy ensure that you have adequate ventilation before you begin. Thoroughly mix a moderate amount of epoxy on a clean surface (I use Post It note sheets to mix epoxy on). Mix until both chemicals are blended together thoroughly. Smear the epoxy around the end of the insert. Ensure that you cover all sides and get a complete covering of epoxy. The epoxy will drip so you need to work fast and continually rotate the end to keep the epoxy flowing around the insert end. Do not skimp on epoxy, it is cheap and easy to make more. In this case more is better than less. Cover with epoxy.jpg (180026 bytes)

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Insert foot.jpg (217230 bytes)

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Assemble parts: Push the insert end into the push pole. Rotate the insert right and left to ensure a good coating of epoxy inside the push pole. As you advance the insert into the push pole wipe the excess epoxy on the end of the push pole back onto the insert end. This will coat the insert end with epoxy and provide an ample supply of epoxy surface. Seat the ferrules and wipe away all excess epoxy. Once you have inserted the end and wiped it clean make sure you have pushed the insert are far as it will travel into the push pole section. Use brute force to seat the end to its exact distance but be careful not to break anything. Use alcohol or acetone to clean all residual epoxy off the end of the push pole.

The completed unit: Make sure that the insert is seated completely. Allow the sections to set for 12 hours minimum. Longer if the temperature is below 60 degrees. I assemble all parts at the same time and make sure all the connector and labels are aligned as I want them. During the drying stage I check the ends to see if they have moved or have been pushed out of the push pole. If the insert begins to move out I merely push it back in and brace the pole against two solid objects to ensure that the ends will not push out any further. Leave the push pole section wedged between these objects through out the drying time. Finished foot.jpg (188850 bytes)

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Tips for the best results:

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To pre-stress the completed pole put the point against a tree limb and wedge the fork with a 2x4 on the ground.

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If you want the logo's to align be sure to watch the ends you use to insert the point and fork.

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When you first flex the completed pole you may hear various creaks and cracking. This is due to the inside "drips" of the epoxy breaking away from the un-cleaned sides of the pole and does not affect the strength.

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Remove masking tape after 2-3 hours for easiest clean up.

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Always clean off excess epoxy before it sets.

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To make your pole more secure to grip, assemble it with the fine outer ridges up on two sections and down on one (You can feel them with your thumbnail). Glue the point or fork (whichever you use most) into the single section with ridges down, so that you are gripping against the ridge/grain direction.

 

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