| Parts needed: To begin
you will need your push pole sections, the foot and tip (here I am using a
GLoomis foot and metal tip), the connecting units (here I am using
Renzetti, Inc. screw in connectors so I can disassemble my pole and store
it better), epoxy, sandpaper, alcohol or acetone and a clean cloth. You
will need an area that has a flat work surface and good ventilation. If is
below 70 degrees you may consider doing this inside to ensure that your
epoxy cures correctly. These directions are for a screw in type connectors
but the directions are the same for solid connectors. Here I am using
80-grit sandpaper, you can use 100-grit if it easier to get. The sandpaper
is regular paper sandpaper, you do not need emery cloth or any other
specialty sandpaper for this job. |
** Click on photo for larger view ** |
** Click on photo for larger view ** |
Sand inserts: Lightly sand the
connector insert ends with 80-grit
sandpaper. Do not sand to hard or to long, just enough to scratch the
surface to allow the epoxy to adhere to the blank. All you are doing is
creating an uneven surface for the epoxy to flow into and adhere to. I
usually sand in two directions that are totally opposite of each other.
This ensures that there will be adequate surface area for the epoxy to
adhere to. It does not take allot of effort nor does it require allot of
force. Remember you are roughing the surface not reducing the diameter.
TIP: Mask the ends of the
blank and edges of the point (this helps in clean up).
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| Rough the edges: Once
you begin sanding stop often to inspect the surface area. This photo shows
a roughed surface that will work well with the epoxy. You can see the
scars that the sand paper created and feel them with your fingers. This
should not take to many strokes with the sand paper depending on the
material composition. Be careful not to take off to much material or
change the shape of the object. Just remember to check your work and keep
the sanding to a minimum. |
** Click on photo for larger view ** |
** Click on photo for larger view ** |
Sand the
push pole: Lightly sand the interior of the blank with 80-grit
sandpaper. Do not sand to hard or to long, just enough to scratch the
surface to allow the epoxy to adhere to the blank. TIP: Mask the ends of the
blank and edges of the point (This helps in clean up). As with the inserts
you just want to scratch the surface. Use a small piece of sandpaper that
is as long as the insert length. You may need to use a dowel rod wrapped
in sand paper to get the correct depth.
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| Inspect the push pole end:
Look at the inside of the push pole section you just sanded. If the
surface is scratched and rough like the one shown you have accomplished
your task. The push pole end just like the inserts should be roughed not
damaged. Pay attention to the sanding on the inside of the push pole do
not sand until the graphite fibers are unraveling. If the graphite fibers
are open and loose the pole will eventually break. A little goes along way
so take your time or it could be a costly mistake. The photo to the left
shows a roughed finish and the inner coating on the graphite is still in
tact, yours should look the same. |
** Click on photo for larger view ** |
** Click on photo for larger view ** |
Clean all parts: Swab the inside of the blank with lacquer thinner to
remove the dust. Continue swabbing until a paper towel shows no black
residue. Use the same procedure on the ferrules and insert points. I
use acetone to clean all my surfaces because it evaporates quickly and
cleanly. Use alcohol if you prefer but allow the pieces to dry before
applying epoxy to them. Whichever chemical you use ensure that you have
adequate ventilation and follow all the manufacturers instructions on use
of their products. Clean cloths are a must here because any residue left
from other jobs could bleed onto the surface you are cleaning and further
contaminate it. |
| Mix epoxy: Do not use
3M 5200 adhesive for
assembly, because the inserts cannot be removed or reused. DO NOT USE 5 Minute EPOXY for
assembly, use an epoxy with a 30-minute plus cure time this will allow you to
complete all task before the epoxy begins to set. When working with epoxy ensure
that you have adequate ventilation before you begin. Thoroughly mix a
moderate amount of epoxy on a clean surface (I use Post It note sheets to
mix epoxy on). Mix until both chemicals are blended together thoroughly.
Smear the epoxy around the end of the insert. Ensure that you cover all
sides and get a complete covering of epoxy. The epoxy will drip so you
need to work fast and continually rotate the end to keep the epoxy flowing
around the insert end. Do not skimp on epoxy, it is cheap and easy to make
more. In this case more is better than less. |
** Click on photo for larger view ** |
** Click on photo for larger view ** |
Assemble
parts: Push the insert end into the push pole. Rotate the insert right
and left to ensure a good coating of epoxy inside the push pole. As you
advance the insert into the push pole wipe the excess epoxy on the end of
the push pole back onto the insert end. This will coat the insert end with
epoxy and provide an ample supply of epoxy surface. Seat the ferrules and wipe
away all excess epoxy. Once you have inserted the end and wiped it clean
make sure you have pushed the insert are far as it will travel into the
push pole section. Use brute force to seat the end to its exact distance
but be careful not to break anything. Use alcohol or acetone to clean all
residual epoxy off the end of the push pole.
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| The completed unit:
Make sure that the insert is seated completely. Allow the sections to set for 12 hours minimum. Longer if
the temperature is below 60 degrees. I assemble all parts at the same time
and make sure all the connector and labels are aligned as I want them.
During the drying stage I check the ends to see if they have moved or have
been pushed out of the push pole. If the insert begins to move out I
merely push it back in and brace the pole against two solid objects to
ensure that the ends will not push out any further. Leave the push pole
section wedged between these objects through out the drying time. |
** Click on photo for larger view ** |
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Tips for the
best results:
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To
pre-stress the completed pole put the point against a tree limb and wedge the
fork with a 2x4 on the ground. |
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If you want the logo's
to align be sure to watch the ends you use to insert the point and fork. |
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When you first flex the
completed pole you may hear various creaks and cracking. This is due to the
inside "drips" of the epoxy breaking away from the un-cleaned sides of
the pole and does not affect the strength.
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Remove masking tape
after 2-3 hours for easiest clean up. |
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Always clean off excess
epoxy before it sets. |
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To make your pole more
secure to grip, assemble it with the fine outer ridges up on two sections and
down on one (You can feel them with your thumbnail). Glue the point or fork
(whichever you use most) into the single section with ridges down, so that you
are gripping against the ridge/grain direction. |
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